Snow Day

Six inches of snow on June 16th! Today, meanwhile, it got to 61--warmest temps yet.

Hockey Moms and the Tea Party

Wasilla, one of the nearest towns, is the home of former VP candidate and part-time governor Sarah Palin. As a previous mayor and someone with an 8th grade writing level, she is very popular here. But seriously, this area is a tea party stronghold. I have never seen so many “Impeach Obama” signs, whether in people’s front yards or people holding them at street corners (photo enclosed). I would like to take pictures of this (or better pictures), but since my only means of transportation is a van with state markings on it, I’m afraid of the response I will get. Can you image someone in a state vehicle taking photos of anti-Obama signs/protesters? They are already anti-government, they might think I would report them to some fictional conspiratorial government group.

Related to this, during our training, the state park staff told us to be careful how we act in public, especially when driving the state vehicles or wearing state park outfits. It’s not unheard of for volunteers at state historic sites to take the brunt of tea party anger.

Eklutna

Finally seeing a place that has something to do with my dissertation—St. Nicholas Orthodox Church in the Dena’ina village of Eklutna. You can see the fusion of Native American and Russian Orthodox Christian traditions in the cemetery. The spirit houses (the small structures over the graves) are from the Dena’ina tradition, with the colors and designs to indicate clan membership. The actual practice of burials (instead of cremation) and the crosses show the Christian influence. The wooden chapel is from the 1870s, built during a time when many Native Americans embraced Russian Orthodoxy as a way to maintain their own traditions. Russian missionaries were more inclusive of the aspects of Native religions that paralleled their own faith (the idea of an afterlife, for instance) and tended to ignore the religious beliefs that they disagreed with. In the face of American settlers/prospectors and uncompromising protestant missionaries, groups like the Dena’ina became Orthodox Christians.

I’m planning to go to one of the major Russian settlements, but can only afford one trip. Kodiak or Sitka?

Hey Bear!--Gold Mint Trail

Grizzly Man

Last night around 8pm Tanveer and I began what turned out to be a five and a half hour, 13 mile hike. The trail we took, the Gold Mint Trail, follows the Little Susitna River to its source. It begins within the forest and gradually rises in elevation above the tree line, ending at a glacier (which we did not make it to). The plan had been to stay out for three hours or so, but we kept going. Tanveer, who is ten years younger than me and bikes 40 miles a day, kept a very brisk pace. Around six or seven miles in, I had to plead with him to turn back...I was already exhausted, we brought little water and no food, and we still had to hike that distance out.

Throughout the hike, as we passed through the thickets and brush, we constantly shouted "hey bear!" We didn't want to run into or surprise a mama bear and her cubs. This reminded me of the documentary Grizzly Man, Werner Herzog's portrait of grizzly lover Timothy Tredwell. He lived with the bears in Alaska, guess what happened to him? Luckily we didn't run into any bears.

Civilization vs. Isolation: Comparing Experiences in Alaska

I keep comparing this experience in Alaska with my time here in 2004. That's not really a fair thing to do since the state is so large, and I'm a completely different area, with a different climate and landscape, but I can't help myself. In 2004 I was near Fairbanks, in the interior of the state. There it was hot (80s), low elevation, a lot of forests, animals, and mosquitoes. Here, I'm in the mountains, in the tundra above the tree line. Maybe once the flowers start to bloom and things turn green, I will change my mind, but I prefer the forests and lower elevations. It has been very cold, cloudy, and desolate up in the mountains.

Also in 2004, it was such an adventure--complete isolation in the forests, no running water or electricity; 45 minutes from anything; moose, bears, lynx, beavers. The crew up there was also very wild, which added to the drama. Here, though its isolated in the mountains, we are only 15 miles from Alaska's fastest growing region: the Mat-Su Valley (home to the towns Palmer and Wasilla). With the convenience of stores, internet, etc. it doesn't feel that different from the rest of the US. As for wildlife, I've only seen marmots, ground squirrels, and one moose. Also, the volunteers who I'm living with are a lot more laid back and responsible--less exciting, though I guess that's a good thing.

All in all, I have to embrace this unique experience (and the constant cold), instead of comparing it to my previous time in Alaska. Just because this is the part of the state with people in it, doesn't mean its not Alaska.

Looking down the valley

The Big House

Independence Mine State Historic Park

Day 2

So far, I seem pretty lucky. Not sure if that’s since I’m the oldest of the volunteers, or if it’s because I was the first to get here, but I’m staying in the Visitor Center (The Big House). This was the former residence of the mine manager. Upstairs there is a small apartment, with a kitchen, bathroom, and bedroom. The other volunteers stay in a portion of the bunk house no. 2, a large three story building which used to house the miners. With the exception of four rooms, this structure has not been restored. The bunk house does have electricity and a gas heater, but no running water. I don’t feel too guilty about my preferential accommodations…the last time I was in Alaska (at the 33 mile compound in the Chena River State Rec. Area outside Fairbanks), I was the last to arrive and got stuck with the worst cabin. Previous volunteers there had nicknamed it “the Ghetto,” no heat, electricity, water, etc.

Day 2—Monday, June 6: Although when around 7am it was 33 degrees here, today was a beautiful day. Sunny and warm, down in the valley in got in the low 60s, and up here at ISMHP it got to about 56. Now this does not sound to warm, especially when you factor in the constant breeze coming off the mountains, but it was sunny and clear—great views. Yesterday, Sunday, was extremely wet, cold, and cloudy. At ISMHP it didn’t get above the 30s, and we had a constant mixture of snow and rain. Glad I brought my winter jacket and gloves. Tanveer (anther volunteer) and I had tried to go hiking on the Gold Cord Trail, but there was so much snow on the ground, it was hard to tell where the trail actually was. After a half hour or so of hiking through snow and tundra, cold and wet, we called it quits and turned back. But today, Monday—much nicer, a good deal of the snow melted, spent the day training.